In 2007 I sailed north-east up the UAE coast into the Omani enclave of the Musandam.
The Musandam, at the North-eastern tip of the Arabian Peninsula, overlooks the Straits of Hormuz. It is bordered to the west by the Arabian Gulf and to the East and South East by the Gulf of Oman and the Indian Ocean. Known as the “Norway” of Arabia, the Musandam Peninsula is separated from the rest of Oman by various of the United Arab Emirates – Ras al Khaimah and Fujairah.
Musandam begins where the mountains rise from the plains of Ras al Khaimah where “Elsie” was berthed.
The Musandam Peninsula is difficult to reach other than by sea and is a haven for sealife and birds. Indeed, as I sailed into Khor Habilayn I was escorted by a pod of a dozen dolphins.
The cliffs rise a thousand feet from the water’s edge and plunge fifty metres underwater just metres from shore. This makes safe anchorages rare and the winds eratic and unpredictable. The shores are populated by friendly Omanis who still live the simple traditional fishing life of their ancestors.
Before entering the inland lake I anchored in Khasab harbour, the home of scores of fast speed boats owned by the local smugglers. They would wait until the coast guard was out of range and then race across the straights to Iran carrying American cigarettes. On their return they would carry illegal aliens who would walk over the mountains into the UAE seeking work.
The waters in the gulf are so salty you almost float on top of the sea.
