The Wooden Boat Centre as seen from Freebooter on her swing mooring at Franklin
I had thought about Franklin as a suitable base for Freebooter since arriving in Tasmania but nothing had prepared me for its beauty and the friendliness of its locals.
Franklin is situated a leisurely four hour sail up the Huon River from where it flows into the D’Entrecasteaux Channel. The oldest town in the Huon Valley, Franklin is only ten kilometres downstream from Huonville which offers excellent opportunities for provisions and services and is a 40 minute drive from Hobart.
Before finding my current swing mooring I based Freebooter at the small and welcoming Franklin Marina, right next to the Living Boat Trust.
Franklin Marina, Tasmania recorded with my Spry+ in 2022.
The water in Franklin is brackish meaning it’s great to help the barnacles fall off the bottom of Freebooter’s hull.
The Living Boat Trust
The Living Boat Trust is a boating community “dedicated to keeping Tasmania’s marine heritage alive and maintaining traditional boat building, repairing, rowing and sailing skills”. Its hub is the shed with a kitchen, bathroom, toilet and changing room. “It has an extensive collection of tools, sailing and rowing gear” and is “the home of good work, good company, good talk, and good food – the last being especially true every Monday evening when [they] host [their] dinners”.
In 2007 I sailed north-east up the UAE coast into the Omani enclave of the Musandam.
The Musandam, at the North-eastern tip of the Arabian Peninsula, overlooks the Straits of Hormuz. It is bordered to the west by the Arabian Gulf and to the East and South East by the Gulf of Oman and the Indian Ocean. Known as the “Norway” of Arabia, the Musandam Peninsula is separated from the rest of Oman by various of the United Arab Emirates – Ras al Khaimah and Fujairah.
Musandam begins where the mountains rise from the plains of Ras al Khaimah where “Elsie” was berthed.
The Musandam Peninsula is difficult to reach other than by sea and is a haven for sealife and birds. Indeed, as I sailed into Khor Habilayn I was escorted by a pod of a dozen dolphins.
The cliffs rise a thousand feet from the water’s edge and plunge fifty metres underwater just metres from shore. This makes safe anchorages rare and the winds eratic and unpredictable. The shores are populated by friendly Omanis who still live the simple traditional fishing life of their ancestors.
Before entering the inland lake I anchored in Khasab harbour, the home of scores of fast speed boats owned by the local smugglers. They would wait until the coast guard was out of range and then race across the straights to Iran carrying American cigarettes. On their return they would carry illegal aliens who would walk over the mountains into the UAE seeking work.
For six years, from 2005-9, I sailed much of the UAE coast in my gaff rigged trailer-sailer, “Elsie Brown”. In 2009, I shipped her home to Australia where she was berthed at the Yaringa Boat Harbour on Westerport Bay, sixty kilometres south-east of Melbourne, Australia.
Ashore on a small sand island five kilometres west of Abu Dhabi (2007). The traditional owners, who have a date-palm plantation on the island, kindly let me camp on the beach for a few nights while I explored the neighbouring islands.
Named after my maternal grandmother, she is a stripped-planked Evening Swan designed by Paul Fisher built in Melbourne by Chris van der Cratts. Elsie has a shallow bilge/shoal keel ideal for the shallow waters of the Arabian Gulf and Westerport Bay. She is easily beached and sits upright on the sand until the tide returns. She has twin berths (convertable to a double), a porta-potty and a small galley.
Sailing of the coast of Kalba just north of the Omani border on the Indian Ocean side of the UAE (2006). Shorty after this photo was taken the winds gusted over thirty knots and I lost the chain bobstay holding down the bobsprit at the bow. My companion boat lost her forstay but we returned safely home.
A few years ago the current owner of Elsie contacted me from Nepal where he worked for a NPO. He was arranging to ship Elsie from Victoria to his home state, Tasmania. I hope to meet up with them while I am in Tasmania.
Elsie at the Yaringa Boat Harbour on Westerport Bay, in Victoria, Austalia (August, 2009).
I have purchased an inReach Mini satellite communicator to stay in touch with family as there is no mobile coverage in most of these locations. This will also provide access to up-to-date weather forecasts as, despite Tas Maritime Radios excellent coverage of the coast, there are black-spots in the VHF network from the entrance of Port Davey to Bathurst Harbour.
Tas Maritime Radios excellent coverage of the coast
“Tasmania Maritime Radio (TMRR) has an extensive VHF/HF radio network with three weather broadcasts daily. Port Davey and Bathurst Harbour are surrounded by mountains, which block VHF as you enter Port Davey all the way to Bathurst Harbour; so all the favourite anchorages, like Brambles Cove, Schooner Cove and Frogs Hollow are in VHF blackout spots.
Once in Bathurst Harbour, however, particularly around Clayton’s Corner, clear two-way VHF was maintained with TMR throughout all weather conditions.“
Port Davey and Bathurst Harbour
Only a 100 nautical nile, two-day cruise from Kettering via Recherche Bay, the Port Davey/Bathurst Harbour Estuary has “been described as unique, because it is the only large estuary in southern Australia without road access or significant human impact.” Jack and Jude report that “there are numerous anchorages within Bathurst Harbour, which is over 10 miles long. Some are no more than quiet out of the way spots; others offer outings and historical remnants.”
Macquarie Harbour, is the second-largest natural harbour in Australia after Port Phillip Bay. It is six times the size of Sydney Harbour. However, its real glory is not its size, but its setting. The surrounding wilderness and the Gordon River that flows through it are otherworldly. Macquarie Harbour is a superb cruising area offering numerous isolated anchorages.
Supplies can be had at Strahan, “a small, picturesque frontier-style town with an abundance of character and a variety of stories to tell of the West Coast’s pioneering days.”
In March 2020 I sailed Our Tommy to Tasmania in search of new sailing grounds. The original plan was to sail north to the Whitsundays but the lure of the southern isle won out; Tasmania is so beautiful! I will stay for a year or so before heading north, hopefully via Tasmania’s rugged and wild western coast.
Click on the headings below to see more information and photos.
Preparation (February 2020)
Yvette and Ludvik, in Australia on a working holiday from the Chech Republic, joined me as crew two weeks prior to departure. They only had six weeks sailing experience in mild conditions in the Mediterranean but both were RYA qualified day skippers and experienced scuba divers. More importantly they were avid adventurers, young and very fit.
To learn the boat, and experience Bass Straight conditions, we spent 4 days cruising into Port Philip Bay staying at Queenscliff, Mornington & Sorrento before returning to Hastings for final provisioning.
My crew – Yvette and Ludvik
Hastings – Cleeland Bight (February 28)
Cleeland Bight provides a safe anchorage under the protection of Cape Woolamai on Phillip Island. There are 2 public moorings close to the beach in under 2 metres but I chose to anchor 200 metres south of these in 2.5 metres just behind a protecting sand bank. Refuge Cove is a 12 hour sail from there so a dawn departure is recommended.
Cleeland Bight – Refuge Cove (March 1)
The SW winds were light but as forecast came up mid-morning and we made good speed to drop anchor in Refuge Cove just after 4pm.
We stayed two nights resting, bathing, sightseeing and fishing before heading off across Bass Straight to Flinders Island via Deal Island.
I met a cruising couple on the beach at Refuge and joined them for a drink on their 42′ yacht. They very kindly gave me some sea-sickness medication for Yvette who had been unable to shake off her sea-sickness when sailing in Bass straight’s heavy swell.
Refuge Cove – Deal island – Flinders Island – Clarke Is (March 3-5)
The forecast of a 25-30 knot SW winds made for an ideal crossing both days. Leaving from Refuge at dawn, Our Tommy made over 8 knots to Deal island and 7 knots to Flinders Island on the second day for a fast and safe Bass Straight crossing – my first!
It was windy, overcast and cold on Deal Island so we decided not to explore but press on to Flinders Island after sheltering in Garden Cove overnight. On arrival the changing easterly conditions suggested taking up a MAST mooring for an overnight stay in beautiful and secluded Port Davies (pictured).
The strong easterly winds moved us quickly south the next day. We knew heavy weather was forecast in a few days for Banks Straight so we decided to press on to Spike Cove in Clarke Island and hope for a favourable weather window the next day to cross over to Tasmania.
I kept in mind the old fisherman’s warning:
“So you have crossed big mean Bass Strait and think you are all done. But then you start going across Banks Strait and get a slap on the backside, just to remind you who is boss. Don’t relax too early!”
Clarke Is – Binalong Bay via St Helen’s Is (March 7-8)
The weather forecast was for 20-25 knot NE winds all day. Leaving just before dawn gave us the tide assist in Banks Straight but as the wind quickly blew up to 30-35 knots (gusting to 40 knots!) the wind against tide conditions made for very large choppy seas and seriously uncomfortable conditions.
The crew were understandably fearful, never having experienced seas of this magnitude, but I knew that Our Tommy was built to survive much worse conditions. Nevertheless, holding course proved challenging but Ludvik’s strength and fitness allowed him to take the wheelhouse helm most of the day. When we finally turned southwards the following swells were well over 4 metres and constant attention to the course and helm were required.
Late in the afternoon, as we neared Binalong Bay and our intended MAST mooring, I realised the northerly conditions were not suitable for a bay exposed to the north. Instead we sailed on for two hours to our alternate anchorage behind small St Helen’s Island which provided us with a protection in 12 metres of water off a rocky shore. We dropped the hook at 8.30pm after 16 hours of arduous sailing. It wasn’t ideal but we were safe – and I carefully monitored the anchor overnight.
Binalong Bay – Wineglass Bay (March 9)
The strong northerlies had abated by the morning but the crew were unhappy with the sailing conditions and made their excuses so as to leave the boat as soon as we could sail to Binelong Bay. Yvette had been unable to shake her sea-sickness and had never become conditioned to big ocean swells.
By 10.30 am we picked up a MAST mooring at Binalong Bay and I ferried the crew ashore to catch a bus to the airport. They did a great job helping me across both Bass and Bank Straights but an unhappy crew does not make for a happy boat. It was good to be alone with Our Tommy.
I stayed three nights in the bay just near the township of St Helens. I tried to no avail to get apilot to guide me through the river bar into town but in the end a friend-of-a-friend who lives in St Helen’s picked me up at the boat ramp (picture below) and drove me into town for supplies.
Having never done it before, I was nervous about single-handing Our Tommy but after a few days the winds abated and I motored south to the protection of magnificent Wineglass Bay.
Wineglass Bay is a stunning as everyone says it is, although I’d take Refuge Cove any day. That evening I felt pleased that I had successfully single-handed Our Tommy for the first time.
Photo of Wineglass Bay anchorage courtesy of MAST Tasmania.
Wineglass Bay – Maria Island (March 12)
After Wineglass Bay I said farewell to the heavy Tasman Sea and found shelter behind the Schouten Passage.
My destination was Maria Island, a lazy day-sail beyond the Shouten Passage just south of Wineglass Bay. I was also looking forward to sharing an anchorage with Rich Cowling and Michele Sly who were sailing north from Kettering, and who were renting me their berth at Oyster Cove Marina.
I made VHF radio contact with Michele a few hours north of Maria Island and we agreed that an anchorage in Chinaman’s Bay in the north of Shoal Bay was best for the conditions. It was as flat as a pancake and our boats barely moved that night.
Maria Island – Dunalley/Denison Canal – Kettering (March 13-14)
Fifteen days after leaving home and this is the home straight – just a half day-sail to Dunalley and the northern end of the Denison Canal. The MAST information for Denison Canal, especially the accurate and downloadable up-to-date routes are an essential study – I would NOT navigate these shallow waters without their routes installed on my chartplotter.
Then, after overnighting on a MAST mooring at Dunalley I waited for my 11am pre-arranged transit of the canal before an easy half day-sail to our new home in the Oyster Bay Marina in Kettering – Cheers!
Tim Patkin, Freebooter’s previous owner, sent me this picture of Freebooter moored on his jetty in McCarr’s Creek, Sydney. Tim suggests the storm jib (pictured), if balanced by the mizzen and possibly reefed, would be a ‘bullet proof’ combination to provide control in heavy weather.
I have been sailing since 2004 when I bought a old 14′ Wayfarer dinghy in Abu Dhabi and taught myself to sail from a book bought at the Marina Mall.
Since then I have owned a 21′ wooden gaff-rigged trailer sailor (2005-2012 – pictured below) and a Northshore 27 (2012-2017) before acquiring Freebooter in 2019. I sailed her down to Tasmania in early 2020 and plan to explore the waters there for a few years before, with luck, cruising up the Whitsundays and beyond to the South Pacific.
The Good Ship Elsie Brown on a small island west of Abu Dhabi (2006). Her shoal keel was perfect for Abu Dhabi’s shallow waters and made beaching and sleeping on the benches at night easy.Freebooter is a Laurent Giles Salar 40 designed to go anywhere in the world quickly and safely. She is currently based in Franklin, Tasmania.
I cruised to Refuge Cove in January 2020 with Paul Saunders on our first extended sea trial after the refit. I also returned in March bound for Tasmania.
As many others before us we found an all weather anchorage protected from Bass Straight. There is a lovely beach with a fresh water stream for rinsing after a swim as well as for washing clothes.
It is quiet as access to Refuge Cove is limited to boats and overnight hikers from Tidal River who stay at the camping ground. next to the stream.
Route from Hastings to Refuge Cove with an overnight stop at Cleeland Bight
Screenshot of route in iPad during voyage
Refuge Cove as seen from Telstra Hill where you can climb to try for a mobile signal
Waterloo Pt lighthouse
Skull Rock off Kanowna Is
Our neighbours at anchor off south beach
With Paul Saunders, Chief Engineer.
A fresh water stream feeds into the cove through the camp ground
The camp ground is accessible only to hikers or boat
