Diving Sipadan Island

In 1998, while living in Singapore, I spent 7 days diving Sipadan Island off the east coast of Sabah – it was, by far and away, the best diving experience of my life.

A scuba diver swims in the middle of a school of Jet fish at Sipadan.

Located in the Celebes Sea, off the east coast of Sabah, Sipadan is the only oceanic island in Malaysia. It rises almost vertically 600 metres (2,000 ft) from the seabed providing extraordinary wall-dives in a marine paradise.

Sipadan is located in one of the world’s richest marine environments. Referred to as the Big Fish capital of the world featuring barracudas, large schools of jacks and bumphead parrotfish and an abundance of green turtles. Most of the diving in Sipadan is a combination of wall and drift diving. The walls are covered with hard corals, soft corals, gorgonians and sponges.

It is hard to choose between the amazing dives I managed during my week long stay on the island:

Barracudas

Swimming away from the wall we went in search of a school of barracudas. Aggressive when swimming alone, barracudas are not dangerous when they school in their thousands in hollow cones often more than twenty metres high. We found a school almost immediately and our divemaster guided us into the centre of the school. We remained surrounded by the school for the next twenty minutes – a magical experience.

Barracudas are not dangerous when they school

Giant Parrot Fish

Weighing over 80kg and more than 1 metre long, thousands of enormous bumphead parrotfish graze on the corals along the vertical wall for algae. They were not bothered by us so it was possible to get close enough to touch them – at night under torch light the were luminescent. And below at 40+ metres we sighted hammerhead sharks circling.

Bumphead Parrotfish weigh over 80kg and are more than 1 metre long. Photo by Erik Schlogl

Green Turtles

I saw more turtles on one dive here than in all my diving anywhere else.

We swan with hundreds of turtles every time we entered the water.

Filipino militant attacks

18 months after my visit 21 people were kidnapped off Sipadan by the Filipino Moro pirate group Abu Sayyaf.

“The armed terrorists arrived by boat, forcing 10 tourists and 11 resort workers to board the vessels at gunpoint, after which they brought the victims to Jolo. All of the victims were eventually released. As a result of the attacks, visitors were no longer allowed to stay on the island resort but have to arrive in dive boats.” (Wikipedia)

Main article: 2000 Sipadan kidnappings

Cathedral Cave in Gozo, Malta

Scuba diving the Cathedral Cave in Gozo, Malta, in 2002 was one of my most extraordinary experiences. I didn’t take this photo but it captures the experience perfectly. Ascending into the cave was like the mystics’ descriptions of entering heaven.

“Accessed from the shores of Ghasri Valley, Cathedral Cave (or Blue Dome) is a huge enclosed dome accessed via a steeply sloping wall located five metres below the surface. Once you enter the dome you can surface to a large air pocket lit up with dancing cobalt reflections by a fissure in the roof.” – https://www.originaldiving.com/blog/gozo-top-dive-sites

The appeal of diving Malta is not so much the sea life, as there isn’t much coral or fish to speak of, but the visibility – often over 50 metres – which is quite extraordinary. The photo above truly represents the visibility to be found in parts of the Mediterranean Sea.

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